5752m | Three Peaks Expedition | Peru
Length: 16 Days
When: May – September
Investment: $9950 USD
Three Peaks Expedition | Non-technical mountaineering in a uniquely Peruvian setting | Trip highlights are Urus Este, Ishinca and Pisco Oeste.
If you are relatively new to mountaineering and want an introduction to climbing relatively straightforward peaks at altitude then this is the trip for you. This itinerary will afford you ample time to acclimatize with two lightweight, non-technical day walks to altitude, and two exciting preparatory climbs, culminating in the picturesque Pisco Oeste (5752m). If your tramping and bushwalking trips are no longer quite challenging enough and you shiver at the thought of sharing the Inca trail or the Everest trek with hundreds of others, then come and have a thrilling experience in relative solitude. This region is often overlooked, so it remains somewhat of an unspoiled secret.
We offer is a low impact, high client satisfaction trip, with close guide to client contact. These peaks are often guided 1:4 (guide to client ratio), but in our experience is that safety, satisfaction, personal interaction and flexibility all improve immensely when the ratios are reduced. The logistics and decision making is taken care of so you can enjoy these peaks from the end of an experienced climbers rope. Experience with a walking axe and crampons is useful but not essential.
Itinerary (16 Days):
Day 1 – Meet in Huaraz for trip briefing and gear check. Dinner and overnight in Huaraz (3090m)
Day 2 – Acclimatization trip to approx 3,600m. Overnight in Huaraz
Day 3 – Acclimatization trip to Laguna Churup at 4450m. Taking only light daypacks and a packed lunch, this will serve as a steady step towards acclimatization. We will take a shuttle to Pitec (1 hour) and enjoy the views of the SW face of Churup (5493m). Overnight in Huaraz.
Day 4 – The climbing begins. We depart Huaraz for Pashpa to reach Ishinca Base Camp at 4,350m. The Ishinca valley is often regarded as the best valley to visit because of its beauty, proximity to Huaraz and quality of peaks. We will transfer to the tiny Quechua village of Pashpa and load up our burros (donkeys) and begin the trek to base camp. You can choose to travel with just a light daypack and allow your burro to carry your gear.
Day 5 – We depart Ishinca base camp for the Urus glacier, granite rock slabs and the snow slopes leading to the summit of Urus Este (5350m). This may be your first push beyond the 5000m barrier, but even if it’s not you will now appreciate the effects of thinner air. This route is rated PD- or approximately NZ 1+. Descent is by the same route and this round trip will take 6-9 hours.
Day 6 – Departing Ishinca Base Camp for Ishinca Moraine Camp (4,800 m). After spending the night at base camp we will hike further up the valley and camp at the edge of the glacier. This will allow us to push for the summit of Ishinca the following day and maximize our acclimatization efforts.
Day 7 – Contingency/ Rest day at Moraine Camp (4800m). This can be used to rest, recharge, enjoy the surroundings and prepare for the summit of Ishinca.
Day 8 – Morraine Camp – Ishinca Summit (5,530m) – Moraine Camp – Base Camp. Summit day on Ishinca involves climbing and traversing on easy angled, glaciated terrain on the NW slopes to the summit. Roping up and travelling in crampons is essential, but this peak is non-technical and is rated approximately PD- or NZ 1+. The summit of Ishinca offers excellent views from the head of the Ishinca valley towards neighbouring Ranrapalca and Tocllaraju. Descent can be back the same way or a traverse down the SW ridge to moraine camp to pack up and return to Base Camp.
Day 9 – Rest day/ contingency day. Rest at camp or if you are still energetic, trek with a lightweight pack from Base Camp to Tocllaraju Glacier Camp (5050m) and return the same day. This camp affords some excellent views of the West face of Tocllaraju and the entire Ishinca valley.
Day 10 – Base Camp – Pashpa – Huaraz. Descend back down the Ishinca Valley through grass fields and native forest to Pashpa. Your burros can take the burden of your pack from here. One hour transfer from Pashpa to Huaraz. Overnight in Huaraz.
Day 11 – Rest and recuperation in Huaraz. You may choose to eat, shop, rest, spa, book a massage or any other day off activity. Overnight in Huaraz
Day 12 – Huaraz – Llanganuco valley – Pisco Moraine Camp (4900m). Our shuttle takes us to the town of Yungay and up the Llanganuco Valley which has one of the highest road passes in Peru. We trek through Meadow Camp (4600m) over the moraine boulders on the glaciers, past a large green lake to moraine camp. This will take 5-7 hours.
Day 13 – Day trip to the Huandoy glacier (approx. 5300m) 4-6 hours return. We will travel to the slopes below the fluted east face of Huandoy Norte and enjoy views across the valley of Chopicalqui and Huascaran Norte and Sur. Enjoy some ice climbing practice and return to moraine camp.
Day 14 – Moraine Camp – Summit Pisco Oeste (5752m). Departing from camp via the moraine ridge we reach the glacier that leads to the Huandoy-Pisco Col. From here, the gentle Southwest Ridge leads toward the summit of Pisco Oeste. Occasionally, the final summit ridge is barred by a short 2-5m ice wall. The route is graded PD or NZ 2- and should take 7-9 hours return.
Day 15 – Morraine Camp – Llanganuco Road – Huaraz. Transfer Llanganuco – Huaraz. Celebratory dinner and drinks in Huaraz. Overnight in Huaraz.
Day 16 – Mountain Sized Brunch, debrief and departure.
Standard Price: $9950 USD per person based on 1:2 or 2:4 ratio
Other Pricing options: $12450 USD per person based on 2:3 ratio
$13950 USD per person based on 1:1 (private guiding) or 2:2 ratio
Guides Fees, Burro and Arriero fees (Donkey and donkey driver)
All personal technical equipment – although familiarity with your own gear is recommended on international expeditions.
All return private transfers from Huaraz to climbing peaks.
Accommodation in Huaraz (6 nights)
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner on all expedition climbing days. Lunch on acclimatization days 2 & 3. Evening meal on Day 1 after the trip brief. Mountain Sized Brunch on Day 16
Group – camping, cooking equipment, ropes, anchors
National Park fees
First Aid Kit, Emergency Altitude Medicines, Satellite Phone, PLB (Personal Locator Beacon).
International Air fares
Hotel in Lima or bus transfers to Huaraz.
Hotel in Huaraz pre or post scheduled itinerary.
Personal Porter fees
Meals in Huaraz on rest days or whilst not on acclimatization trips
Additional costs associated with early departure or evacuation from the mountains or deviation from the itinerary due to illness or otherwise
Mountaineering/ Travel insurance is compulsory and I strongly recommend you purchase it as soon as you pay your initial deposit
Tips or any other expenses not specified