6354m | Three Peaks Expedition | Peru
Length: 16 Days
When: May – September
Investment: $12,950 USD
Moderate Technical Mountaineering | Our most popular itinerary | Trip highlights are Ishinca, Tocllaraju and Chopicalqui | Guide to Client ratio 1:1 or 2:2.
If you already have some mountaineering experience and want a spicy selection of challenging peaks at altitude then this is the trip for you. This itinerary will afford you ample time to acclimatize with two lightweight, non-technical day walks to altitude, and two exciting preparatory climbs, culminating in the magnificent Chopicalqui at 6354m. These are three of the most memorable peaks from my experiences in Peru and offer just the right level of challenge to the aspiring alpinist. If you are hungry for some results or keen to get ready for higher altitude climbing, this is your next goal!
We offer a low impact, high client satisfaction trip, with close guide to client contact. These peaks are often guided 1:2 (guide to client ratio), but in our experience safety, satisfaction, personal interaction and flexibility all improve immensely with the dedication of a single guide catering to your individual needs. We believe this is as close to a climbing partnership that you can get whilst being guided. The logistics and decision making is taken care of so you can enjoy these peaks from the end of an experienced climbers rope.
Itinerary (16 Days):
Day 1 – Meet in Huaraz for trip briefing and gear check. Dinner and overnight in Huaraz (3090m)
Day 2 – Acclimatization trip to approx 3,600m. Final gear check. Overnight in Huaraz
Day 3 – Acclimatization trip to Laguna Churup at 4450m. Taking only light daypacks and a packed lunch, this will serve as a steady step towards acclimatization. We will take a shuttle to Pitec (1 hour) and enjoy the views of the SW face of Churup (5493m). Overnight in Huaraz.
Day 4 – The climbing begins. We depart Huaraz for Pashpa to reach Ishinca Base Camp at 4,350m. The Ishinca valley is often regarded as the best valley to visit because of its beauty, proximity to Huaraz and quality of peaks. We will transfer to the tiny Quechua village of Pashpa and load up our burros (donkeys) and begin the trek to base camp. You can choose to travel with just a light daypack and allow your burro to carry your gear.
Day 6 – Morraine Camp – Ishinca Summit (5,530m) – Morraine Camp – Base Camp. Summit day on Ishinca involves climbing and traversing on easy angled, glaciated terrain on the NW slopes to the summit. Roping up and travelling in crampons is essential, but this peak is non-technical and is rated approximately PD- or NZ 1+. The summit of Ishinca offers excellent views from the head of the Ishinca valley towards neighbouring Ranrapalca and Tocllaraju. Descent can be back the same way or a traverse down the SW ridge to moraine camp to pack up and return to Base Camp.
Day 7 – Contingency/ Rest day at Base Camp (4350m). This can be used to recharge after your successful climb.
Day 8 – Base Camp – Tocllaraju glacier camp (5050m). After our rest we will climb up to a camp at the edge of the glacier. This will allow an early start on crampons the following day. Camp affords some beautiful views of the steep West face.
Day 9 – Glacier Camp – Tocllaraju Summit (6,032m) – Glacier Camp – Base Camp. An early start from glacier camp will allow us to cover some ground before sunrise at which point we will negotiate some crevassed terrain to climb one of the most beautiful peaks in this range via the NW ridge. This is a classic climb, graded at D or NZ grade 3 due to the short steep summit pyramid at about 55 degrees. This will be a significantly larger day than on Ishinca with approx. 8-10 hours required from the Summit back to base camp.
Day 10 – Base Camp – Pashpa – Huaraz. Descend back down the Ishinca Valley through grass fields and native forest to Pashpa. Your burros can take the burden of your pack from here. Private transfer from Pashpa to Huaraz. Overnight in Huaraz.
Day 11 – Rest and recuperation in Huaraz. You may choose to eat, shop, rest, spa, book a massage or any other day off activity. Overnight in Huaraz.
Day 12 – Huaraz – Llanganuco valley – Chopicalqui moraine camp (4900m). Our transport takes us to the town of Yungay and up the Llanganuco Valley close to one of the highest road passes in Peru. Chopicalqui Morraine Camp is reached after a steep climb up the side of the Chopicalqui glacier. This should take approx. 4-5 hours from the road.
Day 13 – Morraine Camp – Camp I Chopicalqui (5,300m). Easy climbing/ glacier travel from moraine camp through relatively straightforward glaciated terrain to a high camp near the southwest ridge. This will allow some rest before an early start on summit day. Approx. 3-4 hours.
Day 14 – Camp I – Chopicalqui Summit (6,354m) – Camp I – Moraine Camp. This is one of the most prominent peaks in the area and affords unparalleled views of Huascaran National Park. Summit day involves negotiating 30 degree slopes through glaciated terrain, culminating in a summit pyramid of approx 55 degree ice. It can often involve a short crux of 80 degree ice for up to 10m. It is graded at PD+ or NZ grade 2+
Day 15 – Morraine Camp – Llanganuco Road – Huaraz. Transfer Llanganuco – Huaraz. Celebratory dinner and drinks in Huaraz. Overnight in Huaraz.
Day 16 – Mountain Sized Breakfast, debrief and departure.
Guides Fees, Burro and Arriero fees (Donkey and donkey driver)
All personal technical equipment – although familiarity with your own gear is essential on technical international expeditions.
All return private transfers from Huaraz to climbing peaks.
Accommodation in Huaraz (6 nights)
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner on all expedition climbing days. Lunch on acclimatization days 2 & 3. Evening meal on Day 1 after the trip brief
Mountain Sized Brunch on Day 16
Group – camping, cooking equipment, ropes, anchors
National Park fees
First Aid Kit, Emergency Altitude Medicines, Satellite Phone, PLB (Personal Locator Beacon).
International Air fares
Hotel in Lima or bus transfers to Huaraz.
Hotel in Huaraz pre or post scheduled itinerary.
Personal Porter fees
Meals in Huaraz on rest days or whilst not on acclimatization trips
Additional costs associated with early departure or evacuation from the mountains or deviation from the itinerary due to illness or otherwise
Mountaineering/ Travel insurance is compulsory and I strongly recommend you purchase it as soon as you pay your initial deposit
Tips or any other expenses not specified
If you want to capitalize on your acclimatization efforts and attempt the majestic Alpamayo, you can easily add on this exciting extra mountain. You will only need an extra 7 days. View the Alpamayo add-on itinerary